Walking the Pilgrims’ Way: Postscript

I had intended my blogs from the Pilgrims’ Way to be a travelogue with useful information for anyone else thinking about undertaking the same walk.

In the end the blogs took different direction so here are some of those practicalities about each stage of the 85-mile route from London to Canterbury.

There are many different ways to break up the journey with suggested sections in the very useful Ciccerone guide by Leigh Hatts. My first-stage walking friend christened it “the book of words” and I consulted it constantly. It was invariably reliable, the only minor issues being when something had been changed since publication in 2017 such as a white cottage now painted grey, a landmark telephone box at the footbridge to Erith having been removed, and several pubs that hadn’t survived COVID-19 and were now closed.

Southwark to Dartford

21 miles

This walk is almost all on pavements apart from the section of about four miles through the paths of the salt marshes at Crayford Ness and a few other patches of park and green space.

Starting at Southwark Cathedral means you can go through Borough Market where you can pick up some supplies for the day. Though there are some pubs and cafes dotted along the way we didn’t try any apart from a perfectly acceptable hipster coffee shop in Deptford. Then after Shooters Hill, where the route turns into suburban streets and urban woodland, there are very few options – not even corner shops – until you reach Lesnes Abbey. Where the cafe is excellent!

The section after the Abbey is also pretty lacking in options, and there are no cafes or snack bars on the marshes.

I stayed in the Royal Victoria and Bull inn which was perfectly acceptable. We had several pints of tasty Coppernob ale and I also had a lasagne which tasted homemade, along with some good chips. If you’re staying there you get a 20% discount on food and drink. The room was comfortable though the pillows were too fat and bouncy for me. But the shower was hot, the breakfast was fine, and there was plentiful wi-fi. The staff were super lovely and helpful and even checked I had enough water for the walk in the morning.

Dartford to Wrotham

17 miles

Much of this section follows the Darent River and once you pass under the M25 – which is quite exciting! – it starts to feel pretty rural. You’re close to villages along the way, though occasionally they are off the route so if you go to have a look you are adding more miles to your already quite long journey.

There were pubs in various places – South Darenth, Farningham, Eynsford, Shoreham and Otford (where there were also tea shops) – none of which I went into. I had lunch that day at the Lullingstone Visitor Centre, which was a pleasant cafe with good food. And a place to top up on water.

On (eventually) reaching Wrotham, I stayed at The Bull which was very pleasant. It had been a wet day so I was very thankful there was an electric radiator in my room which I used to dry off my socks and other soggy clothes. The dinner portions were big, including a generous side dish of macaroni cheese. And I had a pint of good local ale. There is good wi-fi in the bar and the rooms.

Wrotham to Aylesford

11 miles

Much of this section is through fields or hedgerows, or along little country roads, so there are few opportunities to get supplies. I stopped for lunch in Halling, where there were two pubs (though only one was open at lunchtime) and also a shop. I had a very nice fish finger sandwich in The Five Bells.

I stayed at Aylesford Priory, which is located just before getting to Aylesford village. I was too tired to seek out dinner, though I think there was the option of a village pub offering Indian food, or perhaps I could have ordered a takeaway. But, having got there just before the tearoom shut at 5pm, I just went there to get a couple of warm sausage rolls, a sandwich and some fruit. There also looked to be lovely cakes but I already had a wee chocolate bar.

The accommodation at the Priory – at least in the old block where I was staying – is pretty simple. My room was not en suite, though I think some en suite rooms are available. It had a sink in the room but the water comes from a tank and so is not drinking water – which I discovered after drinking two bottles worth! However there are water fountains in the corridors, and a kettle in the common room for boiling the water for tea and coffee.

But the Priory old block was blessed with a bath! With plenty of hot water! Which was incredibly welcome.

And the guest library was a very impressive space, though the book collection – understandably – is focused on works related to Christianity. There’s no wi-fi, at least in the old block.

I forget to photograph breakfast but it was the usual style – cereal, fruit and yoghurt, followed by a fry-up with toast.

Aylesford to Boughton Lees

22 miles

Much of this section of the route is along country paths, fields and ridges. There are villages along the way, and you pass directly through Boxley, Detling and Thurnham where there are pubs. The route also goes directly past a pub called The Dirty Habit at Hollingbourne, though it was closed for refurbishment when I was walking.

The next set of villages on the route – Harrietsham, Lenham, Charing, and Westwell – are situated off the main path. Needing to press on, I bypassed them all and so there was nowhere to stock up on water or food.

At Boughton Lees I stayed at The Flying Horse, which was very comfortable and welcoming. The room was lovely and, having misjudged my day’s supplies and survived only on two small bottles of water, several satsumas and a few mini Mars Bars, I was exceedingly grateful for its big jar of little chocolate chip cookies!

The room – named Dover – also had a bath. This is the point at which I need to apologise to the three young women on a walking holiday whom I overheard at breakfast laughing ruefully about the pitifully low volume of hot water in their evening baths. Yes, that was because I’d hogged every glorious steaming drop. But my need was very great….

Dinner was a really excellent steak and ale pie with veg and gravy accompanied by two pints of Sussex Best. Breakfast was similarly tasty.

Boughton Lees to Canterbury

13 miles

The first six miles this day is through fields until you reach Chilham where there is a pub and a tea shop. I stopped at the delightful Church Mouse tearooms for lunch and was welcomed in kindly despite my bedraggled and soggy state.

Fortified with a Coronation chicken sandwich, blackcurrant cordial and a coffee, the second half of the day was seven miles to Canterbury. The first five miles or so are fields and country roads passing through a village called Chatham Hatch. You then reach the village of Harbledown and proceed almost immediately into the outskirts of the city.

I stayed at Canterbury Cathedral Lodge which is in the precincts of the Cathedral. It was very modern and pleasant; a nice comfortable room, good hot shower, and a lovely view of the Cathedral. Because it’s within the Cathedral grounds you have after-hours access to the precinct and can get into the Cathedral for free! A nice place to finish.

Sleeping

Accommodation was quite pricey. I stayed in historic coaching inns along the route which tended to be around £100 a night for bed and breakfast, apart from Aylesford Priory which was £60 for the same. I did look online for cheaper accommodation such as bed and breakfasts, AirBnB rooms or hostels. But I didn’t find many and those I did were often at a similar price point and were also outside or the edge of the villages. I didn’t fancy having to walk the additional miles to reach them and then have to go back and forth again to get to a pub for dinner. So, as well as having the pleasing connections with travellers of the past, the old coach inns were also the most practical solutions. 

Eating and drinking

I tended to have a big breakfast which kept me going for most of the day, though I usually had two small bottles of water, a few tangerines and some emergency chocolate bars with me at all times. Do be aware that often, though the route may go close to a village, the actual centre may be a diversion off the path, so making these detours to top up on water or stock up on snacks may be a bit daunting if you’ve already racked up quite a few miles that day and have a lot more to go before bedtime.

Carrying

As well as snacks I carried everything else I needed in a rucksack, so I tried to keep my packing to a minimum. You’ll have your own ideas of what’s essential to you but I basically took one set of clothes for walking – boots, socks, leggings, T-shirt, light fleece, light waterproof – which meant they did get pretty stinky by the end of the week. And due to the frequent rain I had to try and dry them out in evenings which was sometimes easier than other times. I had a few other outfits – lightweight dresses and a couple of cardigans – to change into in the evenings and for my post-walk holiday.

I did not take my electric toothbrush or hair dryer! I kept to a minimum of toiletries and bar of shampoo. Ridiculously though I did take some physical books which before too long I was cursing for being extra weight, and was far too tired to read anyway! This is why: